It's Time For A Little Brake Action!

All week long we have been discussing car maintenance and we are now ending the week with important tips for checking your brakes.

We all pretty much know how important brakes are for your vehicle because without them running or running in tip top shape your car just simply won’t stop. If you have ever lost partial brake usage in the past you should learn to inspect your brakes at least twice a year for any wear and damage so that you can protect not only yourself but your passengers as well. By catching needed repairs on your brakes now will save you a lot because it is better to replace it now then wait until later when it could turn out to be a costly expense later on.  

On many cars today you can inspect your brakes without ever having to remove the wheel. If your car has alloy wheels with spaces in the middle you can get a pretty good assessment of them just by peeping thought the hole and looking at them directly. If you can get a good clear look at your brakes check the brake pads and the big shiny disc.

While inspecting the disc you will want to see whether it is shiny from the inside edge and it should be uniformed in its shape. If you see lines on it, it is not a need for panic it is simply normal wear and tear. If the disc has any rough spots or has pronounced type grooves in the disc then you should replace them. A warped brake disc can make even short car trips very irritating. Every time you apply the brakes you think you're going to lose a filling. It's fairly easy to replace your brake discs and not at all expensive. Combine this repair with brake pad replacement and you've had a very productive car repair day!

Before you begin to work in the wheel area be sure your car is safely supported on jack stands. You should never work on your car while it is supported only by a scissor or other emergency tire changing jack.

The first step in brake disc replacement is removing the brake caliper. Remove the brake caliper just like you were replacing your brake pads. Once the caliper is unbolted let it hang out of the way using a bungee cord or similar hanger. You should do this so you won’t have to unbolt the brake line.

Once you've removed the brake caliper, you have to remove the structure that is holding the caliper and pads in place this is called the carrier. Removing it is similar to removing the caliper two bolts on the back and it's off. Be sure to put all of the parts you remove in a safe place with the bolts that they go with it.

With everything out of the way, you can finally start removing the old brake disc. Your disc is held in place by one or two set screws on the front. This may seem like nothing to you but they have a tendency to really be stuck in there.

By using a large Phillips head screwdriver and remove the bolt or bolts holding the brake disc in place. Sometimes the screws will be stripped or otherwise damaged. In this case, you'll have to drill.

With the screws removed, slide the old brake disc off the hub. If it's stubborn, give it some taps with your dead blow hammer to loosen things up and with the old disc off  you can now slide your shiny new brake disc into place. Installation is the reverse of removal so don't forget to replace the brake disc screws.

Brake discs should always be replaced in pairs so that your car's drive ability and safety are not compromised.

The next thing you will need to look at are the brake pads. If you follow the surface of the disc to the top you will see the outside pad touching the disc. If there is 1/8 of an inch or less remaining on the pad it is time for some new ones. Brake pads are very cheap and you can easily replace them.

You will be taking the wheel off so be sure you have your car jacked up and resting securely on jack stands. Go ahead and lugs before you jack it up. It's much easier and safer with the wheel on the ground.

Since you broke the lugs while the car was still on the ground they should be pretty easy to remove. Remove them from the bottom up, leaving the top lug nut to be removed last. This helps in keeping the wheel in one place while you remove the rest of them and makes it easier to safely catch the wheel once you remove the last nut.

If you remove the lugs and still can't get the wheel off, the good old fashioned way and you do this  is reinstall the lug nuts leaving about 5 turns before they start to get snug. Now lower the car to the ground, get in and start it up. Drive back and forth 4 or 5 feet a few times. Now jack the car up and test the wheel. It should be nice and loose now and you are now ready to replace with your spare so you can move on down the road.

On most cars, the next step is to remove the brake caliper so the pads will slide out through the top. On a few cars the pads will come out without removing the caliper, but not many. You'll see the brake caliper in the 12 o'clock position just above the lug bolts and riding atop that shiny brake disc.

On the back of the caliper you'll find a bolt on either side. It will either be a hex bolt of an Allen bolt. Remove these two bolts and put them aside.

Hold the caliper from the top and pull upward, wiggling it around to loosen it up. If it's stubborn, give it a few taps but don’t beat the heck out of them with an upward tap to loosen it a bit. Pull it up and slightly away however be sure not to put any stress on the brake line.

If there is a place to safely set the caliper back there you will need to do it. If not, you'll need to take your bungee cord and hang the caliper from something, the giant coil spring staring at you is a good spot. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line because it can cause damage and lead to brake failure and that’s not a good thing!

Before you pull out the old brake pads take a second to observe how everything is in installed. If there are little metal clips around the brake pads you should remember how they are in there so you can get it right when you put things back together. It might help to remember if you take a digital picture of the whole assembly.

With the caliper out of the way the brake pads should slide right out. I said should because in a new car they probably would. Since our cars our cars are not always new you may need to coax them out with a little tap of the hammer to loosen them up. If your car has little metal tabs holding onto the brake pads, put them to the side because you'll need them in a minute. Put the new pads in the slots with any metal clips you removed. Go ahead and slide the new pads into place now, making sure you don't forget any of the little retaining clips you removed earlier.

As your brake pads wear out the caliper adjusts itself so that you will have strong brakes throughout the life of the pads. If you look on the inside of the caliper you'll see a round piston coming out. This is what pushes on the brake pads from the back. The problem with this is, it has adjusted itself to match your worn out pads. It’s nearly impossible to get it over the new pads. You can do it but the damage level will be pretty high. Instead of destroying your new pads just push the piston back to the starting point.

Take your c-clamp and place the end with the screw on it against the piston with the other end of the clamp around on the back of the caliper assembly. Now slowly tighten the clamp until the piston has moved far enough in that you can easily plop the caliper assembly over the new pads.

With the piston compressed you should be able to easily slide the caliper assembly over the new pads. Once you have it on there, replace the bolts you removed and tighten them snugly. Press the brake pedal a few times to make sure you have solid brake pressure. The first pump or two will be soft as the piston finds its new starting point on the back of the pad.

Now it’s time to put your wheel back on and to make sure that you tighten all of the lug bolts. Now double check your lug bolts just for an added safety measure. 

Last but definitely not least  take a look at your brake lines. Rubber coated lines should be soft and supple, not cracked and rigid. If you see cracks in flexible brake lines they will need to be replaced.  Also be sure to inspect the hard metal lines. These can become corroded, especially in snowy regions where chemicals are used on the roads.

Your brakes are very important. Brakes are no place to get skimpy. If you need to replace a broken and brittle or leaking brake line you will want to do it sooner rather than later.

Before you begin, be sure your car is safely supported on jack stands. Remove the wheel and you're ready to get busy. The rubber brake line attaches to sturdier metal parts, usually connecting two metal parts at a point that needs to be flexible.

The connection consists of two halves with hex-shaped fittings. In other words, you need two wrenches to get them apart. Put a wrench on each fitting, and loosen the connection. have a rag handy to catch the brake fluid as it leaks out. Installing the new brake line is the reverse of removal. Carefully hand thread the connection together and once it's hand tight you just use two wrenches to finish the job.

With the new brake line installed, you'll need to add brake fluid to the system and bleed the brakes. It is a good idea to replace brake lines in pairs because if one line goes bad the other one isn't far behind. If you're really lucky, you have two flexible lines at each axle. That means twice the work. so don't skimp on your brakes.

We hope you’ve enjoyed Car Maintenance chat this week! We want you to come back and visit us often!

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! Manly Auto http://www.manlyauto.com can also can be found on Twitter https://twitter.com/ManlyAuto and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-Rosa-CA/Manly-Auto-Group/103413126362572?v=wall&__a=3& ; stop on over and visit us! 

Tune Up You Car the Correct Way

While many car restoration hobbyists and backyard mechanics have been tuning their cars for decades, very few actually do so in the correct manner. If you are determined to do your own car tune ups you will know now the correct way to start and finish.

Before you start getting all crazy and start replacing and adjusting things for you tune up take a look at your cooling system and see if it is operating as it should be. Check to see if it is running at the proper operating temperature. Check for leaks and if the condition of the water hose connections to the plate under the carburetor to make sure they are actually connected and operating. Also check your battery make sure it is fully charged and look at your generator or alternator to make sure that it is functioning as it should. Take a look at your fuel system and make sure your filter is clean. Make sure that the pump is at the correct pressure. Check for your choke, accelerator, and transmission shift down linkages and make sure that they are running smoothly. Next take a look at the wiring what is the condition as far as whether there are any breaks in the insulation and if the connectors are rusty or loose.  If everything seems to be in good condition you can now start with your tune up.

First things first, getting the ignition settings correct. You will need to start with a fresh set of points, condenser and plugs. Your plug wires may or may not need to be replaced which really depends on the mileage of your car. You should be replacing carbon core wires after about 15,000 miles on the older cars and with solid core wires should have their rubber end caps replaced as they deteriorate this will keep the wires from arching over to your engine block.

Now crank the engine to Top Dead Center as it is marked on your balancer or your pulley. Now open the distributor cap and check to see if the rotor is pointing at the number one cylinder if it isn’t marked just follow the plug wire to the distributor. If it is 180 degrees away from that position simply crank the engine one revolution back to the Top Dead Center. Next mark a line on the side of the distributor housing and you can continue it onto the engine block. This helps if you need to do a bit of realignment.

You are probably asking yourself why you are doing this well simply put you doing is to prevent misplacement of plug wires later and to make the process as smooth as possible in the removal and or replacement of the distributor if that needs to be done. Your engine is now ready to be set to operate in the proper firing order.

The next step is to pull out the old points, the condenser and rotor and then look for smooth movement of the vacuum advance plate. You can check this by sucking on the vacuum hose. Now loosen the distributor’s hold down screw enough to allow movement and rotate the distributor until the wiper arm on the points is at the very top of one of the shaft’s actuating cam lobes. You then will tighten the hold down screw and adjust the points for the proper mechanical gap in accordance to your engine manual. Now you will use your feeler gauge properly and use caution and take your time because you are mechanically setting the proper dwell angle after this you install the rotor and cap.

Next thing to take care of is to gap the new plugs and install them making sure you do not over tighten the threads into the block.  Place your plug wires onto them while making note of the firing order. Make sure the wires are seated into the distributor cap and coil.

Now it’s time to get out the dwell meter and connect it. The red lead will go to the point’s side of the coil or negative terminal and the black clamps onto some grounding point of the engine. Start up your engine and measure the dwell angle. If it is not in the middle of the allowed range stop your engine and move the point gap closer to raise the dwell or if needed farther apart to lower it.  Just keep on doing this until the dwell is correct and the angle has been set by properly adjusting the ignition point gap. Individual point sets can vary in their mechanical and electrical characteristics so the only way to properly set up your ignition points is with a dwell meter.

Next you will need to get out the timing light which is the most overused engine maintenance tool. If you are now scratching your head and wondering why it is overused it is because the engine’s internal components only wear a tiny amount over time which basically means timing chains or the gears do not get loose between your tune ups. The main reason your engine’s timing changes is due to the fact the dwell angle is changing as the wiper on the points wear down.

The next step is to set the timing by connecting the light either inductive or directly and then mark the correct timing position on the crank pulley or the damper. Follow the engine manual which will make it an easy to read mark with something like white out or chalk. Then you will need to disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and just stick a pencil or a nail in it to prevent vacuum leak. Now you can start the engine and get this running to about 500 to 600 rpm’s to prevent any action from the centrifugal advance mechanism well if there IS one that is. Now slowly rotate the distributor until the timing mark lines up with its pointer and then tighten the hold down on the distributor. If your engine won’t run slowly enough, back off the accelerator linkage at the carburetor. If your engine runs too slow increase the speed of the idle and then check your timing again and you can then put the light away.  

Now it’s that long awaited time that you can adjust your carburetor. You will first want to adjust the idle mixture screw or two if you have a four barrel carburetor. With your engine at the correct operating temperature , which by the way is very important so just wait until it does get warmed up, you can then adjust one screw slowly clockwise until the engine starts to stumble or run roughly, then back it up just about one turn. Next adjust the other screw the same way until your engine is running smoothly.

Nest step is to set the engine idle speed and do it according to the manual or in your own personal preference. Ideally a faster idle speed of about 800 to 900 is good but you can have this how you want it. Now readjust the idle mixture screws if you are finding that the engine is running slightly rough.  

It’s time to take your car for a spin around the block and no not just because you want to show off the fact you just tuned up your car but because you need to pay attention to any rough running or any hesitation or misfiring. If you find that it is still running roughly try to loosen up a plug wire or it could be something very obvious like a faulty carburetor system or simply a lack of compression.  Once you have everything running smoothly, NOW you can go take that car of yours for a spin around the block knowing that you now have the knowledge to correctly tune up your car!

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! Manly Auto http://www.manlyauto.com can also can be found on Twitter https://twitter.com/ManlyAuto and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-Rosa-CA/Manly-Auto-Group/103413126362572?v=wall&__a=3& ; stop on over and visit us! 

Tips for Car Battery Maintenance

Your car’s battery is it’s lifeline with out this power your car just isn’t going to go anywhere. Take care of your car’s battery and it will keep your car running for a long time.

Here are some good guidelines in keeping that battery in tip top shape!

Test your car’s battery regularly and especially if you are planning a long trip or after it has just been recharged. One thing you don’t want to have happen when you are far from your home is a battery that fails to start.

Park that Car in the garage especially in the winter months, because an insulated garage will keep that battery warm on those cold winter nights. By keeping your battery warm in the winter time it will be easier for your car to start. If you don’t have an insulated garage, then you should insulate it yourself with a blanket.  

When you test your battery, you should take the time to do a once over cleaning, by removing the clamps and cleaning any dirt and great from the terminals as well as on the clamps themselves. You will have a nice strong connection and you won’t be weakening the battery’s charge. Clean the exterior of the battery case with baking soda which you will need to dissolve in warm water. Dirt will conduct electricity as well as discharge electricity.

While cleaning your battery check the fluid level. If it is low add some distilled water to top it off. In keeping the fluid levels full this will help extend the life of your car’s battery. If you don’t see any fluid, you may want to just go ahead and replace the battery. When there is lack of fluid that is a good indicator that your battery is near the end of its life span.

Make sure that your battery is safe and secure in its mounting bracket. A loose battery will slide around and become damage and in some instances has been know to cause short circuiting.  

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! Manly Auto http://www.manlyauto.com can also can be found on Twitter https://twitter.com/ManlyAuto and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-Rosa-CA/Manly-Auto-Group/103413126362572?v=wall&__a=3& ; stop on over and visit us! 

Emission Control Maintenance

Everyone knows the reasons behind having vehicle emission’s testing and many have failed their emissions test because they did not do proper maintenance for their emission controls system.

There are several measures you can take to ensure that your vehicle’s emission controls system is running as it should keep in mind the following  areas.

The first way would be to bring your vehicle in to your local dealership or car repair shop for regular checkups, check your owner’s manual for information as to what parts of your emission control system is covered by the warranty and how much time is on that warranty. If your city or county has emission testing site you can bring your vehicle there for an inspection as well. By maintaining your vehicle’s emission controls system you will be able to improve your fuel efficiency by six or seven percent.

You should never remove or disable any part of your vehicle’s emission control system, besides being illegal you are going to amplify the emissions being created by your vehicle as well as greatly reducing the over all performance of your vehicle.

If you are doing regular maintenance of your vehicle’s emission control system and it still does not pass an emissions test have the catalytic converter checked by bringing it in for a diagnosis of the vehicles engine and emission system. More so then not any catalytic converter problem will come from the engine management system. Make sure that if you actually do need to replace your catalytic converter that is it meets the United States Environmental Protection Agency’s requirements.

Create a check list as to remind yourself of what maintenance you can do to your vehicle to reduce emissions and save on fuel

Always follow the guidelines of your vehicle’s owner manual when it comes to a regularly doing scheduled maintenance.

Always keep your maintenance records, in having this information you can use these records as proof that you maintained your vehicle properly. You will be able to get more money when it comes time for a trade in or selling it on your own.

Have your emission control system inspected regularly to prevent having a failed emissions test done.

Always use a high quality gas cap and make sure your tires are properly inflated at all times.

Check for any wear and tear on your belts and hoses and check your air conditioning system for leaks.

Always change your fuel filters and air filters when you change your oil as recommended by your owner’s manual.

Check your transmission fluid and radiator coolant on a regular basis.

Replace the PCV value and the breather elements as suggested by your owner’s manual or as needed.

By maintaining your vehicles emissions control system you will benefit by reducing air pollution, have improved vehicle performance, a longer life to your vehicle, higher resale value along with helping you save your money by avoiding vehicle breakdowns.

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! Manly Auto http://www.manlyauto.com can also can be found on Twitter https://twitter.com/ManlyAuto and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-Rosa-CA/Manly-Auto-Group/103413126362572?v=wall&__a=3& ; stop on over and visit us! 

It Makes Sense to Maintain that New Automobile

So you have made the decision it is time to purchase that new model automobile, you’ve picked out the color and found the price range you’ve been looking for. You’ve got your down payment and you’ve gone over the financing options as well as what your budget can handle as far as the payment along with any insurance costs changes.

But one thing you may not have figured on when you’ve made the choice to purchase this new automobile is what the actual expenses will be to maintain and keep your vehicle in good running condition. People normally do not put this part in the equation of their finances when it comes to their decision to purchase a specific model. In a recent Consumer Reports estimate over the next five years, you will spend four percent of the total cost of your vehicle on such things as repair and maintenance on keeping your vehicle in good condition. Sure, right now it doesn’t seem like a lot but it will seem so when you have to deal with a large repair such as a blown transmission.

Another recent study shows that an average American household will spend a minimum of almost $5500.00 on gas and automobile expenses. If you stop to think about this it adds up to almost being like a second car payment.

This American average includes all different makes and models. This also depends on what make and model automobile that you have chosen to purchase. For example if you purchase a brand new Honda Accord over a British sports car of course that maintenance cost will be much lower. Remembering to purchase a warranty from the beginning and this will help you out early on when a repair is in order.

In today’s economy, many people are hanging on to their autos much longer and keeping them in better condition then they were in the past. Also today’s autos are built to be much more dependable, it is not unusual to see a car go past the 100,000 miles on the odometer. With people doing the basic routine maintenance although at times this can be expense it will be spread out over many years.

With a person taking good care of their automobile they will prevent expensive repairs and any serious problems as the miles accumulate on their vehicle. Just by changing the oil or rotating the tires will save a person thousands of dollars down the road. Always make sure to check your owner’s manual as to the recommended maintenance schedule for you vehicle and you will have that auto for many years to come.

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! Manly Auto can also can be found on Twitter https://twitter.com/ManlyAuto  and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-Rosa-CA/Manly-Auto-Group/103413126362572? v=wall&__a=3& ; stop on over and visit us!

Vehicle Fall Check Up Season ~ Prepare for the Cold ahead

As summer draws to an end, you should think about your fall check up for you vehicle before the cold weather season begins. Just as you would get a yearly check up, your vehicle needs to be checked regularly especially if you live in an area of the country where you experience all four seasons.

Those who live in warmer climates have an added benefit of periodic maintenance to their vehicles which makes for a longer vehicle life, better gas mileage and the gives you the ability to spot and fix minor problems early and possibly avoid costly future repairs.

The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, a nonprofit organization that tests and certifies automotive technicians offers this advice as you prepare you vehicle for the cold weather. 

Read your owner's manual and follow the manufacturers recommended service schedules.

Get problems such as hard starts, rough idling, stalling and diminished power corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather will make existing problems worse. While there, ask the shop to replace all dirty filters.

If you live in a region where you experience extremes in cold try putting a bottle of fuel de-icier in your tank at least once a month, this will help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Keep the gas tank filled to help prevent moisture from forming.

Change the oil and oil filter as specified in your manual, and more often and at least every 3,000 miles or so especially if you’re driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips.

The cooling system should be flushed and refilled as recommended. At this time you should check the level, condition and concentration of the coolant. A certified auto technician also should check the tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps and hoses.

Make sure the heater and de-froster system are both in good working condition.

When it comes to your routine battery care, make sure to scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections, clean all surfaces, and re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly. Note that removal of cables can cause damage or loss of data on some newer vehicles, so check your manual. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves to avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid.

Have your vehicle's exhaust system examined for leaks and the trunk and floorboards inspected for small holes.

Examine the tires for remaining tread life and uneven wearing. Check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Remember to check the tire pressure once a month and rotate them as recommended. Don't forget to check the spare and make sure the jack is in good condition.  

By giving your vehicle the once over before the cold winter is here, you will ensure that your vehicle will not only last a lot longer but you will avoid any expensive repairs by having regular maintenance done early.

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! Manly Auto  can also can be found on Twitter  and Facebook; stop on over and visit us! 

Tips for Buying a Pre-Owned Vehicle

If you are thinking of purchasing a pre-owned vehicle it just might have some worth while advantages for you then choosing to purchase that brand new vehicle. You will more then likely be saving some significant about of money when you one that is pre-owned however, you also take some risks that you wouldn’t be taking when making a new car purchase.

Here are some tips for you to consider before choosing that vehicle - 

Most pre-owned vehicles will include the remainder of any of the original manufacturer warranty, as well as an extended warranty. They might differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. As an example one manufacturer might offer a 12 month 12,000 miles warranty with bumper to bumper coverage and another might offer a 5 year 100,000 mile power train warranty for its certified used vehicle. Those that are well maintained and in very good condition will be reflected in the price and it may be a bit higher than those that are not certified pre-owned.

When shopping for that pre-owned vehicle always think twice before purchasing one that is not certified pre-owned. If you purchase a pre-owned vehicle that is certified you will want to try to get some of the remainder of the manufacturer’s original warranty so that you can still take proper performance care of that vehicle. Newer vehicles usually have some years left on the basic warranty as well as they may even have some left on their power train warranty.

Always ask for the Car’s maintenance record information when you are purchasing a used vehicle. Check for any problems that may have shown up in the past. If someone is offering you a used vehicle and does not offer you the maintenance record, is more then likely means that there is something wrong with it or is just in really bad condition and you should think twice before you buy. Always have a mechanic check any vehicle that does not come with the maintenance record.

When you are looking at a pre-owned vehicle you should always have a third party mechanic inspect the car. The mechanic you choose will advise you of any issues or possible problems with the vehicle that you need to know about.  Also if that person trying to sell you the vehicle won’t allow a third party mechanic inspection then walk away.

Also something that not many people do is to do a little research on the VIN which is known as the Vehicle Identification number to obtain the vehicle’s history. Other’s may have it on the inside driver’s door jam or on the engine bay. You should then take that VIN to a reliable source such as Carfax to get a complete history on the vehicle. They will be able to tell you of any accidents, what maintenance was performed and who owned it prior to you.

Sometimes there is a bit more to purchasing a used vehicle then there is with a new one; however with a bit of research you will have peace of mind before signing on the dotted line.

Let Manly Automotive Group help you in your new and previously owned vehicle choices today stop by our website today and drive away knowing that you made the right choice with us! http://www.manlyauto.com/  We also can be found on Twitter https://twitter.com/ManlyAuto and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001445954579&v=wall stop on over and visit us!